So, what would inspire a man at retirement age to pack up everything he owns and move halfway around the world?
My saga began with a burger and fries.
I had recently moved from Portland, Oregon to the nearby suburb of Beaverton. Once I had settled in, I came across a small fast food restaurant that was owned by a lovely Cambodian family. The owners, Sophia and her husband Leiy, were very warm and friendly, and the restaurant soon became one of my favorite haunts.
One day, Sophia casually mentioned that she would be running the restaurant herself the following two weeks because her cook was going to Thailand. Being the eager beaver that I am, I volunteered to help out.
Those two weeks turned into a seven-year gig.
The Way to a Man’s Passport is Through His Stomach
A lunchtime craving may have gotten me in the door, but it was my friendship with Sophia that triggered my wanderlust.
Sophia was a fabulous cook. Each day for my employee meal, she would create a delicious Cambodian dish that wasn’t on the regular menu. This was my introduction to Khmer cuisine.
As the weeks went by, Sophia’s family became good friends. They would often invite me to their home for birthday parties, graduations, and other celebrations where her cooking was the hit of the party. I was usually the only Westerner there, but was always warmly received.
Eventually, I started pitching in at Sophia’s Khmer food booth at local Asian festivals, like the Solar New Year celebration. These events opened my eyes to other lifestyles, such as Thai, Lao, Hmong, and Vietnamese cultures. It was fascinating to see how each group had its own unique vibe, from their awesome food and music to their costumes, dances, and other traditions.
After several years of exposure to Asian culture, I thought, “I think I’ll go to Cambodia.”
A Little Arm-Twisting, Vietnamese Style
Call me lazy, but the thought of arranging my own flights, hotels and itinerary seemed overwhelming. So instead, I decided to work with a travel agency.
The agency I chose was headquartered in Hanoi, Vietnam. My agent insisted I could not possibly tour Cambodia without also visiting her country. Her words still ring loudly in my ears: “You can’t travel halfway around the world and not see Vietnam!”
I thought it best not to upset the person who was arranging my travel and hotels halfway around the world. So I agreed to visit Vietnam.
– – “Oh, the Places You’ll Go!” – –
My initial trepidation to visit Vietnam may have had something to do with my upbringing. I grew up during the Vietnam War, and still remember how it was played out on television every night. The war only ended about 50 years ago, and I was a bit concerned about any lingering ill feelings towards Americans.
My fears were for naught.
I found Vietnam to be incredibly warm and hospitable. But talk about culture shock!
It was simply one surprise after another:
Marveling at overloaded motor scooters that effortlessly doubled as moving vans, livestock trailers, and five-passenger SUVs.
Uncovering incredible stories of wartime resilience while exploring the underground world of the Cu Chi Tunnels.
Belting out karaoke tunes in the middle of Ha Long Bay — one of the New7 Wonders of Nature.
Sipping coffee in Hanoi while balancing on doll furniture.
Watching small paper lanterns cast a gentle glowing light as they floated down the river in Hoi An.
It was also in Vietnam where I was introduced to the practice of climbing temple steps, just to get a better view.
I hadn’t even set foot in Cambodia.
Finally… Cambodia
Once my whirlwind tour of Vietnam was completed, I was on my way to my original destination.
My first stop was Phnom Penh, the capital city. My tour included a visit to a Khmer Rouge detention center, where I came face to face with one of the darkest chapters in Cambodian history. This tour hit home in a way I hadn’t expected, as I realized that the horrors of the Cambodian Genocide actually took place during my own lifetime.
Next up was Angkor Wat, where I was greeted by the unforgettable sight of the morning sun casting its light on the soaring towers of the temple. Yet, the real surprise was the temple’s walls, which are basically giant storybooks carved with scenes of ancient everyday life.
Angkor Wat alone was worth the 16-hour flight.
I finished my trip to Cambodia with a visit to the Tonlé Sap River, where I discovered a rather unique way of life.
Homes sit atop giant stilts.
School children take a boat to school.
And everywhere a fishing boat.
It’s a world where every aspect of everyday life is specifically adapted to living on the water.
I also discovered something even more remarkable…
During the dry season, the Tonlé Sap runs southward, draining into the Mekong Delta. But during the monsoon season, heavy rains swell the river, forcing it to reverse its course — filling the lake to five or six times its dry season size.
Mother Nature is full of surprises.
Onto Cooler Climes
Two years later, I was actually living in Thailand when a Facebook friend I’d never met in person randomly invited me to visit her native Malaysia. There was no tempting me with food or trying to strong-arm me into coming. It was a completely different kind of travel invite than I was used to getting.
Soon, I was off to Ipoh, where I was pleasantly surprised to find the Malaysian climate a bit cooler than Thailand’s.
Bonus points for Malaysia.
When we weren’t busy eating our way across Malaysia, we were exploring Ipoh’s amazing natural wonders. I can still hear my echo off the walls of Gua Tempurung, a limestone cave millions of years old. And tall tales of giant creatures inhabiting Mirror Lake remain fresh in my mind.
Alas, my trip to Malaysia was far too short.
What began with a trip to a fast food joint eventually led to a lasting friendship and a new life in Thailand.
That’s a pretty good bargain for the price of a hamburger.
Snapshots of life in Southeast Asia beyond Thailand
